Sunday, July 29, 2012

A Nice time


I'm skipping a bit of the trip here for the sake of my buddy David who asked for some recommendations of what to do in Nice. So here goes.

We arrived in Nice after a loooong hot and sticky train ride from Barcelona. The thirteen or so hours were uneventful until we stopped off briefly in Marseilles and a met a kiwi couple who joined for the last leg of the journey. These guys seemed nice enough, obviously list tickers who had 'enjoyed' around 24 hours at each of their destinations before hurtling to their next point on the checklist. After more time spent with them however, it appeared this kind of travelling had begun to take it's toll. The guy was super friendly and just excited to hear another New Zealand accent, the girl on the other hand looked like all she wanted to do was eat her darling boyfriend's face off if he so much as touched her.

Turns out that they had been booking accommodation as they went rather than in advance which to an extent works but not everywhere, particularly in Nice. I think a lot of backpackers have this romantic notion of arriving in a place and finding a quaint place to stay once you get there. Doesn't happen. It won't be quaint, it will be shit. Remember this guys or beware the wrath of an unshowered, overtired girlfriend. 

Back to Nice though. We arrived at the wrong hostel (there are two of the same name just to mess with you) so ended up at the right one at around 11pm. It was a lovely suprise then that our room door was buggered and somehow trapped us in when we closed it behind us. Several panicked phone calls and a packet of Mister Corn (amazing European snack- find it in Spain) later we were finally rescued by the confused girl at reception. This was the last room left so our first night in Nice was spent with the door a crack open, in full earshot of a drunk American girl laugh-crying on the shoulder of some guy that was not her boyfriend.

That reminds me- watch out for young Americans who say they are “studying abroad”. They aren't allowed to drink until they're 21 back home so con their parents into paying for them to study in Europe where they can order over the bar like grown ups. The result is frightening and so, so loud.

Okay so I'm rambling now. Time for a list- that you may tick or not tick as you see fit if you are ever in the Nice neighbourhood.

Promenade des Anglais: This is the stretch of footpath that runs right along the waterfront. Great for people watching and feels a bit like a time warp where ladies rollerblade by in lycra and overtanned portly old men sport medallions and white linen shirts.

Cours Selaya Flower Market: Despite the name this is more about the food. Beautiful produce that is almost too good to eat and fantastic French atmosphere. So much colour!

Fennochio Icecream Parlour: All gelato shops in Nice are open ridiculously late and this is no exception. The real reason to go is for the variety of flavours though- I had black olive (amazing) and basil & tomato (bit weird) but there are 80 or so other flavours to choose from.

La Voix De Son Maitre: The most amazing creperie. We stumbled on this wee gem and never wanted to eat anywhere else in Nice. Get one of the Galettes (massive wafer thin savoury crepes) for dinner- we had smoked salmon on ours and they were glorious. The hardest part is choosing your topping- such a selection! They also serve delicious cider in tea cups. Note: you must linger at least 45 mins after your meal or they get offended. The French like you to savour your meals.

Le Chateau: Climb up the steps of Le Chateau for breathtaking views of the city. The colour of the ocean in Nice is something to behold and it is truly magnificent from a height. There's even a waterfall tucked into the walk and the elaborate graves in the cemetery are worth a look too.

Vieux Nice (Old town): Stumbling through the bustling cobbled streets that make up the 'old town' district, you really feel like you're in Nice- the heart of the city. Get a 'pan bagnet' in you (massive tuna sandwich that is so much better than it sounds) and pretend you're a local.

A couple things to flag...

Monaco: It's a novelty that this tiny place is a country in its own right and just forty minutes from Nice. Seeing as it's only a couple euro bus ride away we were easily tempted to have a wee look. Seriously though, a novelty is all it is. Yawn. The Monte Carlo casino is worth a gander but dress the part if you want to get past the reception area.

Wayne's Bar: If you're one of those people that go overeseas to hang out with other kiwis and the odd Aussie then by all means. If you want good music, atmosphere and personal space then steer clear.  

Happy Nice time!

Mmmmmm le tasty...behold the glory of the galette


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